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Fashion Photography through the Eyes of William Helburn

11/24/2014

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I went to a book signing in New York City for a newly published "Seventh and Madison" featuring photographs by William Helburn. Upon walking into the gallery, I was surrounded by fashion photographs and had a chance to watch Helburn sign his book and interact with his fans.The best place to be! 

Helburn was primarily active in the 1950s and 1960s and his fashion photography, as well as marketing work, was published in Harper’s Bazaar, Life, Esquire, Town & Country, just to name a few. His work was playful and as he himself put it, shocking.
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“I tried to always, always, always do something a little different. I would put a girl on a couch in Times Square – put it in the middle of the avenue there. I would take girls out in the middle of a snowstorm naked under a fur coat and have them strip naked in the middle of a street – and do a shot. Shock value was a term that was used. And I meant to shock people as much as I could.”

As Helburn was signing his book (assembled in collaboration with Robert and Lois Allen Lilly), I took a look at the photographs on display. The one that caught my attention is from 1956 (below, left column). It has a bit of a magical feel to it - Dovima, an American model, is dressed in an exquisite Dior gown and seems to have just appeared in the city, under the track's of Chicago's L. A policeman in the background looks startled by her presence - the rolls of rich fabrics add to the mystery! 

Helburn, who is in his 90s, has definitely made a mark on the fashion industry. Interested in his work? You can purchase the book here. 
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"Dovima Under the El (Dior Creates Cosmopolitan Drama)," 1956. For Douglas Simon. Photograph by William Helburn
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One of the photographs on display and four sale at the book signing. November 20, 2014. New York City. Photography by Martina Sestakova
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